280 Connally St.
Atlanta, GA 30312
404-835-7167
The Lamplighter Cafe is atlanta's newest edition to the
independent cafe scene.  Nestled into the Memorial Drive
corridor between Historic Grant Park, Cabbagetown, and
Downtown, the Lamplighter Cafe offers a contemporary
cuisine with a variety of coffee drinks, wine and liquors
and locally made pastries and desserts.  Contact The
Lamplighter for all of your Coffee, foodie, and catering
needs.
IN THE NEWS

Lamplighter Cafe
[ Coffeehouse | Salads | Sandwiches ]
[Grant Park]
280 Connally St., Atlanta, GA
Phone 404-835-7167 user rating:     Rate it:   rate this article:        

restaurant tour  cl review  user comments  


James Camp
HOPE YOU'RE HUNGRY: The huge antipasti plate at Lamplighter Café
Lighting a lamp
review by Cliff Bostock
2007-09-12

"We're very urban here," Eric Newman said as he led us outside to the rear of Lamplighter
Café (280 Connally St., 404-835-7167). There, on the sidewalk of Martin Luther King Jr.
Boulevard, we took seats at a wobbly table that gave us a view of a demolished factory,
Grady Memorial Hospital and the state Capitol. It was almost 10 p.m.

"Isn't this kind of strange?" I whispered to Wayne.

"It's nice," he said. "I love the rubble."

Meanwhile, the occasional street person walked by, greeting us. "It's an outdoor cafe, wow!"
one of them said. "Eating on the sidewalk. Oh yeah."

This may be the strangest restaurant I've visited in several years. Eric was most recently co-
owner of Solstice Café in Grant Park. He earlier worked as a server at Eclipse di Luna. (Fair
disclosure: He knows me.)

The oddity of the place starts with its location on a short street that connects Memorial
Drive and MLK Jr. Boulevard. When we first visited I confess to saying, "This looks scary."
The building was painted a depressing gray, and there was lettering on the building featuring
backward e's. Eric later told me people had said it looked like a biker bar or a fetish club. He
has since repainted it, but since he is colorblind, the "sand" color he picked turned out to be
strongly pink. So it's gone from S&M gray to stripper pink.

The interior is equally odd. There's a small dining room with a coffee bar. A window that
separates the kitchen is painted with swirling, fiery colors. It reminded me of the projection
lamp I had during my LSD days.

The menu is likewise on the quirky but not uninteresting side. The restaurant, not far from
Grant Park, is in a transitional neighborhood, so Eric's first plan to serve more unusual food
was rapidly short-circuited.

"One day last week, we had people at 15 tables get up and leave because we didn't have any
'real food' – meaning chicken wings," he said. Chicken wings are now on the menu, as is
country-fried steak.

We've eaten twice at the restaurant and enjoyed much of the food, although there are
glitches here and there that probably relate to the tastes of the clientele. For example, a
starter of fried white mushrooms tastes great. The 'shrooms are crispy and earthy-tasting.
But they are served with a marinara dipping sauce that makes no sense to me. Wayne loved
it. He's very transitional. Likewise, corn fritters slightly tinged with curry flavors are a bit
oily but otherwise savory.

But they are served with a melba berry sauce that reminded me of IHOP.

There's a gigantic antipasti plate that is the best choice for two people or more to share. The
danger is that it's so much food, you may not have room for an entree after eating it,
especially with any other appetizer, as was our case. It includes toast spread with a chunky
guacamole, a peppery hummus, three deli meats, three good cheeses (except the bizarre
blueberry Stilton), olives and lots of fruit.

We returned a few nights later, after the building had been painted, to try entrees. Wayne
had a bowl of noodles in a coconut-curry sauce with shrimp, almonds, tomatoes and baby
spinach. The pasta was a bit overcooked for my taste, but I'm coming to the conclusion that
I favor undercooked pasta, since I have this complaint so often.

My own entree was a juicy hanger steak served over polenta cakes and topped with what the
menu calls a "New Orleans barbecue and mushroom sauce." I'm not sure how it's made, but
it bore no resemblance to typical barbecue sauces, for which I was glad. It was sharp and
peppery.

There are other oddities about the place. Food is served on large pieces of tile instead of
plates; glassware is Mason jars. Eric is recycling-minded. He urges customers who stop by
for coffee in the morning to bring their own cups. Give Lamplighter a try – lunch or dinner –
and let me hear your comments.